I didn't do a whole lot to it except for raising the action a bit and levelling off the profile across the strings so that the profile is flat by adjusting the bridge saddles.
Technique - use fingers on the left hand to mute the strings behind the slide. Also a fairly light touch of the slide on the strings. I use a Dunlop glass slide, I have a steel one as well but the glass one sounds a bit more mellow.
Age: 52 Messages: 8, You can mute with the free fingers on the left hand, and don't forget that you can also mute with the right.
I have tried different kinds of slides, but I tend to go back to either an old aluminum tube that I found many years ago, and got my start doing slide with, or a nice new brass tube from Dunlop. I think the Dunlop is a medium. I mostly do slide on acoustic, so I usually don't raise the strings. You will want a little bit higher action than most of us use.
Age: 60 Messages: 1, Slide Guitar Extension Nut stewmac. Phat-O-Caster , Apr 13, Messages: 10, I like low action on my guitars but I keep 1 guitar with slightly higher action for playing slide.
It's not so high that I can't play it regularly. Everything else is the same as my other guitars. I like a glass slide on my third finger This is the only recording I have on slide. It's from an old rehearsal. I am playing the lead and slide, except the bridge where I take the second solo.
I am playing my pewter strat plus. Messages: 5, I've played a lot of slide. I also play lap steel and pedal steel. I currently have a tele set up in open G, but for years I only Had one guitar and played slide on it fine, even back when I played 9s. I usually play slide in standard tuning live, as I don't bring a guitar just for slide. Using a 6" mm ruler, measure the distance from the bottom of the first and sixth strings to the top of the pole piece.
A good rule of thumb is that the distance should be greatest at the sixth-string neck pickup position, and closest at the first-string bridge pickup position. Follow the measurement guidelines in the chart below as starting points. The distance will vary according to the amount of magnetic pull from the pickup. Adjustments should be made after all of the above have been accomplished.
Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard. If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.
There are a few other things that you can do to optimize your tuning stability that have more to do with playing and tuning habits. Each time you play your guitar, before you do your final tuning, play for a few minutes to allow the strings to warm up. Metal expands when warm and contracts when cool. After you've played a few riffs and done a few dive-bombs, you can then do your final tuning.
Remember—with most tuning keys, it's preferable to tune up to pitch. However, with locking tuners, go past the note and tune down to pitch. Finally, wipe the strings, neck and bridge with a lint-free cloth after playing.
When transporting or storing your guitar, even for short periods, avoid leaving it anyplace you wouldn't feel comfortable yourself. All prices are in GBP. All rights reserved. Tools Needed Set of automotive feeler gauges. Chord Clinic: Learn to play 10 interesting A major chord variations.
An Introduction to alternate tunings: Advanced alternate tunings for electric guitar. Learn to play guitar like David Gilmour in five minutes. Guides DIY Workshop. We show you how to tweak your Tele so it plays like a dream. By Samuel Roberts. The January issue of Guitar Magazine is out now! One upgrade, that we highly recommend, is replacing the old claw and jack cup with the Electrosocket jack plate. This is a fantastic little upgrade from the old design and will help eliminate any problems or potential headaches in this area.
The next critical thing to check at the beginning is the string ground. The ground wire usually runs from under the bridge plate through a hole drilled in the body to either the control or bridge pickup cavity, where it is soldered to the back of a potentiometer or other ground connection. These ground wires can lose connection or just not have been installed at all.
Check now so it can be reconnected now or later on in the setup process when it is easier to address. Doing this will help flush out any fret or nut issues that can be taken care of now before we go any further.
Before you straighten the neck you want to check how much relief there is first. You can use a straight edge ruler that lays across the top of most of the frets of the neck or a notched straight edge that rests against the fretboard. You want to lay the ruler down the middle of the neck between the D and G strings. If there is too much relief, there will be a gap between the bottom of the ruler and the frets or fretboard near the middle of the neck.
You will then need to grab your truss rod tool and turn the truss rod nut clockwise until that gap is gone on the bottom edge of the ruler. If the neck has a back bow, the ruler will rock back and forth at the ends because the neck is bowed up in the middle. Place the capo at the first fret. Then with the thumb of your right hand, fret the low E string down around the 17th fret.
Take the. You want this much relief in the neck. Adjust the truss rod until the feeler gauge fits between the bottom of the string and the fret.
So in order to adjust the neck, you will need to take the neck out of the body to get to it. The easiest way to do this is to capo the strings at the first fret, loosen strings at the tuner, take out neck screws, pull neck out of the body slightly in order to adjust the neck. After adjusting the truss rod, clockwise to reduce relief and counter-clockwise to add relief, then reattach neck in the body with the screws and retune the strings in order to recheck the relief in the neck.
Now with the neck straight we can check if there are any fret issues before we continue the setup. It is important to take care of any frets issues now so we can make sure that we can setup up the guitar as best we can without any buzzing or dead spots on the neck when it is straightened out. We will use the fret rocker tool to check all the frets on the neck and make sure there are no high frets. You also want to make sure that none of the frets are loose and popping up out of the fret slots.
If there are loose and uneven frets then they would need to be reseated and glued down. Then a fret level and crowning would need to be done to them before moving on.
This is also the best time to check the string heights at the nut and see if the nut needs to be replaced or shimmed. You want to check the nut slots to see if any are too low that strings might be resting or buzzing on the first fret when the neck relief was adjusted straight.
If there are issues like this at the nut or you prefer a different material, then it will have to be taken out to be either replaced or shimmed.
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